Mar 20, 2011

The Great Hoodie Hunt

The internet signal did not make it up to the 5th floor, so we went to the Arctic Circle downstairs in the lobby, coffee packets in hand, to see what was available for breakfast.

Jason- Hello.

P- Good morning Jason. You are back early this morning.

Jason – Did you sleep ok? Were you warm?

P- Yes, we were warm and we slept good.

Jason – You want some egg and toast?

P- That sounds good.

Jason- Ok. But you must wait because the cook must go to market and he make your eggs when he come back.

G- That's no problem. Can we have hot water for our coffee packets?

Jason – Yes, of course. I can get it. For the breakfast it is better that you eat at 10:00.

G- Oh, ok. I thought yesterday you said we had until 10:30 to eat it.

Jason – Yes, 10:30.

G- Um, ok.

P- What did he say about the market? Does the cook need to go get the eggs?

G- I'm not sure what that whole thing was about. Something about when the cook goes to the market, but it's only 10:00 and they said breakfast was served until 10:30.

P- Even when they do speak English, I'm often unsure of what they mean by what they're saying.

G- Me too. I wish we spoke Mandarin.

Jason brought us a binder of available tours which we read while we waited for our breakfast.

G- I'd like to take the rafting trip to Yangshuo, but it doesn't make sense to come back since we want to stay for a few days.

P- Maybe we could take the raft there and just stay.

G- It's a bamboo raft. I wonder if it's big enough to take our bags.

P- I sure as hell hope it's that big or I don't want to go all the way to Yangshuo on it.

G- Good point. The next question is, will it ever stop raining?!?!

P- Yeah, how can we book a rafting trip in the rain?

G- We have the option of this big boat, but I don't like it as much and it costs more. We won't be able to see good or take pictures from inside the big boat.

P- I'd love to take this excursion into the countryside to see the Karsts and rice terraces, but not in the rain.

G- You want to take the hike in the rice terraces? Who are you and where is the Phyllis I know?

P- No, ass, not the hike, this one.......... you go on a bus. Also, there are some ethnic minority tribes up there.

G- Oh, there's the Phyllis I know. We can't do a damn thing if it does not stop raining.

When Jason returned, we told him about our weather concerns. He advised that he thought there might be a break in the rain, but a weather check on the internet did not support his optimism. Ultimately, we didn't plan any excursions because it seemed pointless to do them in the rain. Jason did tell us that the bamboo boat could take our backpacks and could drop down plastic sheeting to protect us from the rain. He cautioned us against taking the bus to Yangshuo because it was unsafe. We explained that we had grown up in New Orleans, and that the US has far more crime than China, and that we had been traveling alone through Asia for months, but he was not swayed. Finally we told him that we'd take our chances on the bus. He looked skeptical.

The day was not getting any better but there was no point sitting in the cold lobby, so we donned our rain jackets and went off to explore Guilin under our umbrellas. We walked on a wide, stone paved, osmanthus tree lined, walkway along the Li River. The drizzle was light and didn't bother us under the trees. On our way to the Sun & Moon Twin Pagodas we 'happened upon' a gentleman also strolling along the river.

Man – Hello. Do you speak English?

P- (under her breath to me) Just ignore him.

G- Yes, we do speak English. How could you tell?

Man – I teach English.

G- Really, I'm just kidding. I know we stand out and look like we'd speak English.

Man – Where are you from?

P- (under her breath) Why are you talking to him? Don't encourage him.

G- (under my breath) He's not going to do anything to us. (to the man) We're from America.

Where do you teach English?

Man - At a university.

G- Your English is excellent.

Man – Thank you. Where are you going?

P- To the pagodas.

Man – They are very beautiful.

P- I'm sure they would be more beautiful in the sunshine instead of the rain. When will the rain stop?

Man – Maybe not for a month. It is the time for the rain.

G- We picked an excellent time to visit China.

Man – How long will you be in Guilin?

P- Not long.

Man – Where will you go after Guilin?

G- Yangshuo. Is it much smaller than Guilin?

Man – It is even more beautiful there. Yes, it is smaller.

G- Every city in China is much larger than we expected.

Man – China's cities are growing very quickly now. Many people from the countryside are moving into the cities.

G- We came by train from Nanning and I was surprised that we did not see more farmers in the countryside.

Man – Many of the farmers have moved to the cities for work and a better way of life. But it is difficult for them in the city because they don't get much money, because of their classification, and apartments are expensive.

P- What does that mean? What kind of classification?

Man – The money you are paid is based on your classification.

P- If you stop farming and move to the city can you get your classification changed?

Man – It is very difficult. Things are changing very fast in China, but some things not fast enough.

G- What kind of jobs can the people classified as farmers get in the city.

Man – Jobs that pay very little, this is why it is difficult for them.

P- Sounds like the government needs to move faster.

Man – Yes. How will you get to Yangshuo?

G- We are going by boat.

Man – Do you have tickets?

G- Yes. We booked it through our hotel.

Man – You should not book through a hotel because it is more expensive.

P- We'll remember that next time.

Man – Would you like to come to my travel company to look at the tours I can book for you?

G- I thought you taught English.

Man – Yes, but I also I have a tour company.

P- No, thank you.

G- We're not booking tours in Guilin because the weather is bad and we've already booked our travel to Yangshuo.

Man – But maybe you will see a tour that you would like and you will change your mind.

G- Thanks, but no. It was nice talking to you. You have a good afternoon.

We began to walk away, but he followed and persisted.

Man – My sister owns a tea house. Would you like to come drink some special teas.

P- No, we prefer beer to tea and right now we are going to the Pagodas.

G- We have enjoyed talking to you, but now we would like to walk alone. You have a nice day.

P- (under her breath) Go away mofo.

Man – Ok, if you change your mind you take my card.

G- Ok, thank you. Bye-bye.

Man – Good-bye.

We walked away purposefully and he did not follow.

P- You see, I told you not to start talking to him.

G- Why? I enjoyed our conversation.

P- Because he just wants to sell you shit.

G- That does not mean that we have to buy anything. It wasn't too difficult to get rid of him. Plus, I already read, in Lonely Planet, about the tea house scam and the fact that everyone has a tour company, so I knew what to expect.

P- There not our favorite guide book, but they sure do tell you which scams to expect.

The drizzle stopped for a few hours and we spent several hours walking along the river and around the Shan Lake where the Pagodas were situated. The Moon Pagoda is 7stories high and the Sun Pagoda is the tallest copper pagoda in the world. Later, we walked to an outdoor mall which consisted of pedestrian only streets lined with shops. Phyl still did not have a hoodie and we each needed a thick long sleeve shirt. We found the Chinese to be stylish, but also fond of clothes decorated with cartoonish characters. This made finding what we wanted even more difficult.

P- I may never get my hoodie because I'm not paying $80.00 for Nike or Adidas hoodies and I'm not wearing a Hello Kitty or cartoon character on my shirt.

G- We'll find something eventually.

P- You know I hate to shop and I'm tired of being looked at like I'm crazy to think there is a sweatshirt that will fit over my boobs.

G- I know, muffin, but cut them some slack. They've probably never seen boobs like yours.

P- I know, but I'm tired of being the circus freak.

G- Let's stop shopping for a while, get something to eat, and drink a beer.

We found a little shop where we selected a few different meats (chicken, lamb, & pork) on skewers and some vegetables (green onions, squash, & cabbage) that were flash fried in a very hot oil. It seems a little scary, but the food was not oily at all. The man behind the counter spoke a little English and was able to tell us our different meat options. They also served very cold bottles of beer, so we sat outside the shop and watched the people go by while we ate.

Much to Phyl's dismay, we returned to shopping. I was able to find a thick, navy blue shirt that fit perfectly, and was on sale.

P- Did you read what it says?

G- No, what does it say?

P- “I do more splendid”

G- Haha! I love it. Perfect Chinglish. I'm buying it.

P- Look at this one. It would look adorable on you and it's Saints colors.

G- I didn't want another little zip up jacket, but I might have to get this one too because it's perfect for Saints season. Who Dat!!

P- Yes, get both of them and you should be good.

G- Yes, I have the thick socks we bought in Hanoi, the shoes that I just bought in Nanning are very comfortable, now I have this thick shirt, and the warm ski hat I bought earlier. I'm good. But we still have not found you a hoodie.

P- I'm tired of shopping. Forget it.

G- No, we'll check the shops from here to the end of the walkway, then we'll stop.

P- Whah! I hate shopping.

G- Stop whining, Gladys. You hate being cold too and if you don't get a hoodie, or some kind of sweatshirt, you're gonna freeze your tits off in Tibet.

P- Maybe that would be a good thing. People will stop staring at me.

G- It won't be good for me because I'll have to listen to you bitch.

P- I never bitch.

G- Ha! Yeah. I wish that were true. Cold, tired & hungry. The perfect storm that I'm trying to ward off.

Halfway down the lane I went into a narrow little shop that sold sportswear and there, on a hanger, was a navy blue hoodie with the word Classic! written in yellow.

G- OMG! Look at this.

P- What size is it?

G- It's a medium, but maybe there are more. I hope there are more or I might cry.

P- I do like it, but it's more than I wanted to spend on a sweatshirt.

G- * gasp * Gladys, if they have your size we are buying this damn sweatshirt!

Fortunately, they had an XL and we were finally able to buy Phyllis a hoodie. The shopping was done!!