Snakes, Spiders & Lizards, Oh My

The next morning the neighbors' roosters' crowing hit a crescendo around 6:00 am. That, coupled with the light streaming into the large window at the foot of our bed, conspired to rouse us earlier than civilized people should be awakened. After lying in bed for an hour and listening to the morning sounds, we closed the curtains, so that we could dress, and went to the breakfast table.


At breakfast we met fellow travelers: Bo & Laurie (from Calgary), Michael (originally from Nola, graduated from EJ then moved to Cali, now living in Ubud for the past year), Mary (college art teacher in Boston) & a couple from France who we could not talk to due to language barriers. Ayu, Maday's wife, is known for her green, banana pancakes. The green color comes from a plant pulled from her garden. It was fun to talk to everyone and get suggestions on places to visit & eat and things to do.

Michael was especially helpful with some tips on things to say, in Balinese, to hawkers.

After sitting and talking for hours, we headed off on a hike through the rice fields. Along the way we came upon an artist, Wayan, who paints in a “structure” on the side of the path, and sells to passersby and to a gallery in the city. He explained his technique and schooling (4 years at art school).

G- Water, water everywhere, but no pool, river, or lake to jump into.

P- I guess we could get into the rice field, but then we'd also be covered in mud and I don't think the farmers would appreciate us swimming in their rice. The ducks seem to be enjoying it, but I don't want to have to eat bugs and the rice gradeaux.

G- But you could easily shit in the fields. Actually, I think it's cool the way they use NATURE instead of pesticides and other poisons. The ducks eat the left over seeds and other unused rice parts. They also eat mosquito larvae, and other pests that would eat the rice, and their droppings fertilize the soil in which the rice grows. A perfect ecosystem, just like God designed.

P- I think I'll leave the bug eating and field shitting up to the ducks. Let's go find some shade to sit in.

A little further we sat in the shade, with our feet dangling in the river runoff, and drank some water.

G- Holy crap! Look at the size of that spider!!

P- Why did you have to show me that?! I don't want to see that. You know I hate bugs.

G- But look at how cool it is. Freakin huge!!!

P- Yes, they could make a movie..........The Spider That Ate Bali........and if it moves, I'll run over your ass to get away from it.

G- Chill. It's not going to suddenly jump off it's web to attack you.

Gusti – Hello! Where you from?

P- America.

Gusti- You like Bali?

G- Yes, very much.

Gusti – You want coconut? I get for you.

P- What do you mean? From where?

Gusti – There. In tree. I climb and get.

G- You'll climb that tree and get one of those coconuts way up there?

Gusti- Yes. Juice good for you in heat.

G- How much?

Gusti- 20,000 rupiah.

G- I don't think I have 20,000. (pulling money from pocket) I only have 6,000. Phyl, you got any money?

P- No. You have it all. Will you do it for 6,000?

Gusti – (reluctantly) Ok. I do for 6,000.

We watched in awe as Gusti, barefooted, with a machete stuck in the back waistband of his pants, scaled a 40' tall coconut tree.

G- I want to try to do that.

P- I bet with some practice you could do that, my little spider monkey.

G- If I had started when I was young................... no doubt I could.

Gusti descended, cracked open our coconut and we drank the clear, citrus tasting juice. Then he cut the meat out of the husk and we put it into a bag. Feeling hydrated and a little less sweaty, we continued down the path. We crossed the river on a little man made bamboo bridge, and followed the river back toward Ubud. The rainforest was denser in this area and therefore it was a little cooler, but we encountered many more critters along this path.

G- Ahhhhh!!!! Holy shit! (I jumped back and Phyl collided into me)

P- What? What are you doing?

G- Did you see that big, freakin snake that just crossed right in front of me?

P- No, thank Gawd.

G- It was about 4' long and grey. Are grey snakes poisonous?

P- I don't know. The ditty I know says something about, “if red touches black, get back jack, if red touches yellow, he's an ok fellow” or something like that.

G- We need the Balinese version of that ditty.

Along that section of path we encountered at least 5 more snakes, but thankfully, they were always running from us. We also saw many very large lizards and spiders. When we came upon a area where we could easily access the stream, we stopped and rested and wet our feet and heads.

G- I don't think I've been this hot in my whole life.

P- This heat & oppressive humidity could never be explained, even to New Orleanians. I feel like I'm sitting in a pizza oven.

G- An oven would be dry. This is like being in a sauna 24/7. My clothes are stuck to me. And have you noticed that we have not had to use the bathroom all day? I think my bladder is shriveled up.

We passed men and women working in the rice fields. Everyone smiled and said hello, even if that was the only English word they knew. One man walked behind an ox like animal pulling a trow (or some similar farm implement) in knee deep water and mud. We passed a family of chickens and watched as the rooster and hen moved from spot to spot scratching up the dirt while about 8 chicks followed dining on whatever bugs were churned up. We were a little nervous to pass them, but they paid us no mind.

Back at the bungalow we stripped and got under a cold shower, then put on our sarongs and sat, panting, on the porch, praying for a breeze or afternoon rain shower to cool things off. The shower finally came and provided a short respite, while we read and talked to the other guests as they returned from their outings.