Chinatown in Every City

Some of the Trip Advisor reviews had said that the hotel was not centrally located, but we were happy with the location. We exited the hotel and walked only 2 blocks before arriving in Chinatown. One block further was Petaling Street which, according to the map of walking tours, was the primary street bazaar for tourists and locals. We walked down 3 blocks and looked at the items for sale and a few street food vendors. Several food carts had chestnuts roasting on an open fire! It was the first time we'd ever seen that..

P- Did you see her?

G- The woman in the complete black burqa with only her eyes showing?  Yes, I saw her.

P- First one I've seen since we've been in Asia.

G- Yep.  Headscarves are one thing, but that I could never get use to.  It's disturbing to see it.

P- Not to mention that it is hot as hell and she is covered from head to toe in these layers of black fabric.


Turning left we headed toward the river and to the Central Market (c.1888), remodeled in the 1930s in an art deco style, and today housing 228 shops selling traditionally Malaysian arts and crafts. There were many beautiful, handmade items for sale that exceeded the backpackers' budget. We then walked along Jalan Petaling with shops built in the 1920s in the Dutch style.

P- Ugh! What the hell is that smell?

G- Smells like rancid fish. Hello! This would be the cause of the smell.

P- (The shop contained huge bins all kinds of dried fish and shrimp.) Who shops here and actually uses this nasty shit?

G- I can't imagine it. Walk faster!!!

We turned a few corners in search of the Sze Ya Temple, built in 1864, and were confused as to its location until we looked up and saw the fascade of the building.

G- Well this is a disappointment. The gates are shut tight and all I can see is cars parked inside.

P- This is the temple?

G- I think so. Let's go find the Hindu temple.

We walked another few blocks until we came upon the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple. It was spectacular and we stood on the opposite street corner admiring the intricate carvings of Hindu gods. It was bright and colorful and a 5 tiered pyramid served as the gate to the temple. We were mesmerized. Entering the gate we gave our shoes to the gatekeeper and noticed that some sort of ceremony was taking place so we entered the main building and sat quietly on the side watching the ceremony.

P- It looks like a baby christening, or whatever it is called for a Hindu ceremony.

G- I think you're right. It seems like the priests are blessing the participants as they make their offerings and go into that room with the elephant god.

P- It's very interesting. The parents and the baby are leaving and going around the back. Let's go see.

We followed to another alter around the back and watched a more intimate ceremony as the baby was placed on the step of the little alter and the priest prayed above him/her.

After the ceremony we walked around the temple and admired the Italian & Spanish tiles depicting stories of Hinduism. It was the most beautiful temple we had seen so far. Later we walked back through Chinatown, selecting a restaurant near our hotel. Using the term restaurant may not be appropriate as we literally sat on plastic chairs, at little fold up tables, on the sidewalk.

P- It's a good thing the food is good, because the ambience sucks.

G- I love inhaling bus fumes and having bus and car occupants watch me as I eat dinner. That being said, we must have made a good selection because the place is packed with people who look local.

P- This may be the best fried rice we've had so far.

G- What's in those containers? Frogs & crabs? The food sure is fresh! You order frog, one of those poor bastards gets its throat slit.

The walk back to the hotel was, of course, up hill, but at least it was dark, so it wasn't as hot. I stood in the shower luxuriating in the hot water. It was wonderful!!! The little things in life are the things we miss most.

P- How was it?

G- Positively fantastic!!! But the weird thing is that there is no place to put your products. There is a tiny soap dish mounted to the wall, but there is no place to put your shampoo or conditioner. Surely Asian people use products? Where the hell do they put them?

P- I don't know. That part makes no sense to me.

The bed was wonderful and the multiple fluffy pillows almost put us into a state of ecstacy. How we have missed our fluffy pillows! We left the curtains open and admired the Kuala Lumpur night skyline. The Petronas Towers looked like cut crystal shimmering in the darkness. At midnight the towers' lights were turned off and we took that as our que to go to sleep. We slept like babies.