Doi Suthep

Via email, we had arranged to Skype with Shannon this morning. We drank our coffee until the appointed time, then moved to the quiet, computer room just off the breeze way. It was good timing and allowed us to get an outsider's opinion about how we were feeling. We discussed our situation and our feelings of disappointment. Shannon had some good, insightful words of advice. My peri menopausal craziness had subsided, and we, I, was back to normal.

G- I'm sorry muffin. I want to control it, and before it happens, I concentrate on controlling it, but when it hits me, I simply can't control the insanity.

P- I know, baby, and I understand. I think it makes you even crazier because you want to control it, but you can't.

G- That's true. While I'm in the throes of craziness, I'm angry at myself for not being able to control it.

After our conversation with Shannon, Kosta arrived. Phyl & I had planned on renting 1 motorcycle for the day, but Kosta recommended that we each get our own because the ride up the mountain to Doi Suthep was steep and the motorcycle would struggle transporting 2 people. Also, Phyl and I both wanted to drive. I was not a fan of motorcycles and had never ridden on, or driven one, but being a control freak, did not want to put my fate in Phyl's hands who had driven a motorcycle, but not in 35 years. We finally, at Kosta's urging, rented a motorcycle for each of us. After all, Ron rented them for 150 Baht (approx. $5.00 USD/day).

Emma,  the guesthouse manager, drove our motorcycles down the breeze way.

Emma – You want helmets?

G- Yes! Definitely want helmets!!

Emma – Ok. (She said this as though it were no big deal either way, and went off to find us helmets.)

G- OMG! After seeing tourists in Bali, and now in Chiang Mai, with terrible road rash from motorcycle crashes, I am terrified of leaving my nicely tanned skin on the pavement of this town. A concussion in Thailand isn't exactly on my bucket list either. As we speak, Kosta is the poster child for road rash and concussion.

P- Me either, but you'll be fine. You'll get the hang of riding it in no time.

G- I know, but we're also driving on the opposite side of the road. There is so much to think about. It's disgusting that I use to be fearless and now I'm so cautious. I guess 15 years of claims handling will do that to a person?

P- That and the difference between 25 and 43.

G- Thanks. I don't have to be reminded. We are fortunate to be able to follow Kosta and not have to worry about where we're going. At least that's one less thing for us to think about.

We took off down the street, following Kosta, around the corner, along the moat, and finally on the road up the mountain. Phyl was more comfortable on the bike and followed Kosta closely. I went very slowly and brought up the rear. Just past the Chiang Mai Zoo, at the base of the mountain, we stopped at a large Buddha statue which represented the beginning of the journey up to Doi Suthep. All pilgrims to the temple stopped at the statue and gave an offering. Phyl & Kosta stayed by the motorcycles while I went to snap a few photos of the offerings.

We proceeded up the winding mountain road and the temperature began to cool considerably. Fortunately, I had been a little cool on the way to the Buddha statue and had put my jacket on at that time. Phyl was in a sleeveless shirt and did not want her jacket, but later conceded that she was cool on the ride up. As each mile passed, we began to feel more comfortable on the bikes. The scenery was beautiful, it reminded us of the ride we use to take across the mountains to Half Moon Bay, but without the scents of the Eucalyptus trees, and once we stopped at an overlook to view Chiang Mai.

We arrived at Doi Suthep and Kosta led us to the parking area where we simply parked our motorcycles in front of a car. The parking lot was gridlock for cars, but motorcycles just go around them. We stopped in the 'bathroom' first..............

G- You go first, then you hold the backpack and I'll go. (I paid the 5 Baht each.)

P- (When she came out) I just squatted and didn't use pinky.

G- Really? How was it on your knees?

P- I squatted, and kind've leaned my back on the wall. It wasn't too bad.

G- Ok, I'll try it. (After squatting quite successfully...) You're right! That wasn't too bad at all.

We started our climb to the the temple, first up a gentle slope, passing vendors selling fresh fruit, meats on skewers, roasted corn on the cob, and of course, various souvenirs. We said our 'no, thanks yous', 'already bought some', 'not hungry right now', and 'maybe laters', and continued on our way. Finally we arrived at the bottom of the 300 steps we had to climb to get to the top. Who needs StairMaster when you're in Asia? Two beautiful Naga (Dragons) stood sentinel at the base of the steps and their bodies lead the way to the top.

P- This climb wasn't as bad as most.

G- Well, it was shaded the whole way up, and your legs are in better shape.

P- Climbing all the steps that we've been climbing, my ass should be sitting on my shoulders.

G- Um, no. Also, the steps are not too steep and appear to be all the same size. What a novel idea!

When we reached the top, we stepped to the side to remove our shoes. The whole site is considered sacred and, although we weren't yet in the temple compound itself, we wanted to be respectful.

Kosta – Just put your shoes over here.

G- I don't know, Kosta. This place is very crowded and these are the only shoes we have.

Kosta – No one will steal them, I promise.

P- Maybe we can fit them into the backpack. (We tried this option without success.)

Kosta – The Thai people would not steal your shoes, especially at a religious site.

G- I'm more worried about other tourists.

P- Kosta, you leave your shoes unattended in New Orleans and when you return, they'd be gone.

Kosta – Yes, in Belgium too, but we are in Thailand.

G & P – Ok. We'll leave them. (We reluctantly walked away from our $100 Keens.)

We walked around the area between the first wall and the wall that separates the temple, taking in the sights and sounds. There were children playing traditional Thai instruments and others performing Thai dances. People were making offerings at several Buddha statues, recessed into niches along the inner temple wall. We went to a viewing area where we could see all of Chiang Mai. Bougainvillaea & orchids were growing around the area and it was quite beautiful. Connor had told us of this beautiful area and had urged us to see it. He did not exaggerate. We entered the inner walled area and stopped so that Phyl could put her long sleeve shirt over her bare shoulders. It was not the day to wear a sleeveless shirt. We pulled our shorts low on our hips so they covered our knees.

In the center of the courtyard a large gold stupa stood, surrounded by a smaller wall. On all 4 sides the faithful were lighting incense sticks and dipping unopened lotus blossoms into (holy?) water and tapping it on their heads. They would then join the procession of people, holding their lotus flowers, in clasped hands, in front of their chests, praying/chanting as they walked around the stupa. We watched for a while and wish we knew more about this ritual. Do they walk around a certain number of times? Why do they do this? Do they say a particular prayer/chant as they walk? There is so much to learn about the things we have seen when we return home and have libraries at our disposal.

At the far end of the square sat an alter, inside a large room, with Buddha statues on the far wall and a monk sitting off to the left blessing those approaching on their knees, seeking blessings. We entered, admired the beautiful wall paintings, in squares, floor to ceiling on the walls, and watched what the pilgrims were doing. Then we followed suit, and walked, on our knees, toward the monk, waiting amongst the people, for our turn to receive a blessing. We tried to do everything right, but when it was Phyl's turn, the monk started telling her something in Thai, which was clearly an admonishment. Of course, she had no idea what he was saying, but after he fussed for a minute, he tossed some holy water on her, said a blessing, and laid a string across her outstretched wrist. The string represents the blessing and is worn until it falls off. Monks are not allowed to touch women, thus he did not tie it on her wrist.

I had been in the crowd behind Phyl and decided not to approach the monk until we could determine why she had been fussed. We went outside and talked to Kosta who had been watching the event and explained that as she approached, her shorts crept up above her knees and that must have been what the monk was fussing about because your knees are not to be showing in the temple. Ah! I took my jacket out of my backpack and wrapped it around my waist so that it covered my knees, then I went back into the alter room for my blessing. It was painful walking on the hard floor on my knees. No wonder Phyl was in pain! Her knees have been killing her for weeks. But, it was worth it to take part in this Buddhist ritual.

As we walked back to the area where we had left our shoes, funny man Kosta made jokes that he saw our shoes on people's feet, but sure enough, just as he had promised, our shoes were in exactly the same spot as we had left them. We walked back down the 300 steps and stopped at a food stall where I bought an ear of roasted corn and Phyl bought popcorn.

We returned to our motorcycles and headed further up the mountain to the summer palace of the king. Hungry, we stopped and ate lunch at a food stall/'restaurant'. Kosta bought his daughter an elephant pendant on a silver chain and we went to purchase tickets for the palace. People are not allowed into the palace, and can only walk around the gardens, but we learned that the dress code required to step onto the palace grounds were even more restrictive than the temple dress code, so we did not go. We headed back down the the mountain, which was a little scarier on the hairpin turns than going up, but now we felt more at ease on the motorcycles. When we were almost to our guesthouse, we separated from Kosta. We spent the remainder of he evening chillin on the guesthouse chaises and drinking a few Chang beers.

G- This has been a good day.  I really enjoyed today.

P- Good.  Me too.  And I'm glad that Satan is gone and I have my sweet Gigi back.

G- Me too.