Healing Herbs

The boat motor cranked to life at 6:00 AM. Breakfast, which we skipped, was served at 7:30 AM. We were, however, out of our room, with our luggage, by 8:30 AM so the crew could ready the boat for the next passengers. Morning fog greeted us but quickly burned off enough for us to see the karsts. Before we sailed, our tour guide and 2 of the kids jumped from the top deck into the bay. Of course they screamed due to the cold water, but it wasn't cold enough to prevent them from doing it again. We, along with the rest of the passengers, took photos, participated in the countdown, and yelled words of encouragement.


A feeling of tranquility enveloped our souls as we slid through the beautiful green water past the limestone monoliths. Eamonn, Phyl & I discussed the forces that shaped this area and the continuing erosion caused by the bay on the bases of each karst.

Eamonn - I feel so fortunate to be able to see this beautiful place.

P- This is why we travel. I prefer the natural things to the man made things.

G- I am constantly amazed by the beauty of Mother Earth, and the diversity is astounding.

P- Plus, I'm happy whenever I'm on the water.

Eamonn - I'm a sailor. I own a sailboat in Ireland and we sail almost every weekend. I'm happiest when I'm on the sea.

P- Sailing in Ireland may be a little too cold for my taste, but it sounds wonderful.

G- Isn't it usually cold and rainy in Ireland?

Eamonn - Well, you get use to it.

The tour guide pulled out a 200,000 Dong note, showed us the karst image on the back, and pointed ahead to the Kissing Rock Karst. This monolith stands on 4 small pillars, it's ultimate collapse inevitable. We sailed through the karsts for 2-3 hours on our return to port. At times we spoke of the surrounding beauty, pointing out different views and taking photos of one another. Other times we stood, lost in our own thoughts, trying to emblazon just a few of Ha Long Bay's 3,000 karsts upon our memories, lest we forget this gorgeous site. The memories, or the photos, in your head may not stay crisp, but the feeling is never forgotten.

It was lunchtime when we reached the dock, so we were lead to a large restaurant across the street. This is apparently where every tourist, ending a trip on Ha Long Bay, is fed before the return bus ride.

G- OMG! Look at that large glass container filled with dead animals.

P- It's some kind of alcohol.

Eamonn - You want a drink?

G & P - NO!

G- I know about the tequila with the worm and Asian alcohols with snakes and scorpions in them, but that thing has dead birds in it.

P- I know it's not good to mix your alcohols, but I guess it's ok to mix your dead animals in alcohol.

G- I think each liquor should only be allowed to contain 1 species of dead animal. Eamonn, you're Irish, you try it!

Eamonn - We may be known to drink a lot, but we don't drink things like that.

P- Can't you catch a disease from a dead pigeon?

G- Blech! The whole thing is disgusting!!

This kind of shock and horror must be experienced by a vast majority of the patrons because the wait staff was completely unfazed by our exclamations of disgust. After a time we all sat back down and lunch was served. Fortunately, the lunch consisted primarily of vegetables. Our bus was delayed due to a flat tire, so we sat on the front steps of the restaurant and waited for 30 minutes. The French couple was especially nervous about the delay because they had a flight to catch in Hanoi at 4:30 PM.

G- Phyl, what did you do to your arm?

P- Where?

G- There.  It's bleeding.  What did you cut it on?

Eamonn - Look, the clasp of the pin on her backback is open.

P- Awwwww!  My fleur de lis clasp is broken.

G- We'll get you another one.  Put something on that bleeding arm before it drips on your pants!

I fished a tissue out of my bag as our cute tour guide came over to see what the fuss was about.

Guide - I can make a medicine from a plant. 

P- What kind of plant?

Guide - Let me find it.

He returned with the stalk of a green plant which he promptly pulled the leaves off of and stuck into his mouth.  After chewing it for a while, he spit it into his hand, took Phyls arm and pressed the chewed up green mulch onto her wound.  Eamonn, the French couple, Phyl and I stood shocked, looking at each other in various states of disbelief.

Guide - Hold this on the cut for a few minutes and it will be much better.

P- Ok.

He walked off.  We all started laughing.

P- I cannot believe that he just chewed up a plant then put it and his spit on my arm.

G- I know he was just trying to be nice and helpful, but..........

French lady - It is so unusual.  So many of the things they do are so unusual.

P- I wasn't sure what to do.  It happened so fast.

Eamonn - It adds to the experience of your adventure.

G- Ok, now drop that spit soaked mulch onto the ground and clean your arm with this Purell.

P- It'll burn.

G- Tough shit, Gladys, you need to kill any possible germs you may have just gotten.

P- Alright!

Eamonn - I wish I had a video of the incident and everyone's face.

G- Me too.

Finally our bus arrived and we were soon barreling down the road toward Hanoi. Phyl & I were so enjoying talking to Eamonn that we sat in the last seat which accommodated 3 people. The road, as usual, was in poor condition and at times we literally flew up out of our seats. Eamonn shared some old Celtic music from his ipod, and we talked about our families, Ireland, America, and the state of the world. It was nice to discuss these things with someone our own age. While we enjoy the late teens and 20 somethings we meet, they have fewer life experiences.  Eamonn continuously commented on the wild ride and the crazy way they drive in Asia.  We agreed, but had ceased to be fazed by it.

As we neared Hanoi and the location of the previous day's bread sellers, the bus suddenly pulled over on the side of the freeway and stopped behind a black sedan.

P- What's going on?

G- The French couple is getting off.

P- What? Why?

Eamonn - Oh, that's right, they have to catch a flight.

G- I love it, but it is unbelievable that the tour guide called the person bringing them to the airport and instructed him to meet us on the freeway instead of the hotel.

P- That would never happen at home.

G- It is expedient.

Eamonn - They sure do get the job done.

The French people's bags were taken off the bus and placed in the sedan's trunk and they were soon headed down the freeway to the airport. Our tour guide acted as though this was not an unusual matter and soon we were winding our way through the crowded streets of Hanoi dropping off passengers at their various hotels. Upon our return to New Century Hotel, we were happy to discover that our same room was waiting for us. We dropped our bags and headed down the street to our favorite bar for a cold, draft Halida.